‘Every Cook Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots.

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.